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Introduction

Steps to System
Construction

1. Frame
2. Burners and Gas Lines
3. Heat Shielding
4. HLB, Mash Tun,
and Kettle
5. Heating Chamber
6. Immersion Chiller
7. Counterflow Heat
Exchanger
8. Pumps
9. Plumbing for both
Chillers
10. RIMS Control System
11. Electrical Plan
12. Controller

Brewing

Brewery Construction Guide

Electrical Plan

Materials & Procedures
See section 10, RIMS, for materials & procedures
 
 
Main Power Switch – Home-style wall switch.  It controls power (on/off) to the entire system, including the GFI outlet.
GFI Outlet – Ground Fault Interrupter outlet.  When this type of outlet detects a ground fault, which may be you being electrocuted, it shuts down power to the outlet.  And with this electrical plan, the rest of the system shuts down too.  It is useful for additional equipment such as a spotlight to view the dark interior of the mash tun.
Controller – The Omega temperature/process controller used to control the RIMS system.  When first powered, it goes into heating output mode for mash temperature control.  It must be put into “Standby” mode when the heater is not needed. Otherwise, you will heat the chiller water when it moves through the heating chamber.
Thermocouple – The t-type thermocouple used by the controller to determine mash temperature.  See 9, Plumbing.
Solid State Relay – The relay powers the heating element when the controller switches it on.  The relay should handle a capacity of at least 15 amps, My brewery has a 25-amp relay.
Finned Heat Sink – The heat generated by the relay is absorbed by the heat sink.  Attach the relay to the heat sink and attach the heat sink to the back of the panel’s wood frame.
Automatic or Manual Control Switch - In the event that the Controller has stopped operating, switch to Manual Control and operate the heater manually.  Automatic control is more precise and easier.  Use manual control only as a back-up in the event of  Controller failure. (3-way switch)
Manual ON or Manual OFF Switch - As noted above, manually control the heater when the Auto/Manual switch is in the manual position.  (3-way switch) (My Controller has faulted a few times, so I'd intall these switches as a back-up.)
Pump Switch(es) and Pump(s) – Home style wall switches.  Pump 1 switch is needed to move the mash fluid, runoff and chiller cold water.  Pump 2 switch is needed to move hot water from the kettle through the counterflow chiller for cleaning (if the counterflow is installed).  See section 8, Pumps.
Heating Element – A screw-in style hot water heater element.  A 240 volt, 4500 watt element operated at 120 volts.  It is screwed into a flange that was designed to convert the screw-in to a bolt on.  The flange is soldered on the top of the copper heating chamber tubing.  See section 5, Heating Chamber.
Cord and Plug – A three wire electrical cord and plug long enough to reach an outlet. Rated to handle 120 volts.

 

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This page designed and produced by Donald S. Chrzan
Site last updated: 21-jun-05 22:44