Materials 2 “King Kooker” Propane Gas Burners, Min. 130,000 BTUs 1 Propane Gas Tank and Nozzle, Regulator and Hose attachment 1 Brass T-Joint (for 3/8” tubing) 2 Brass Valves (for 3/8” tubing) 8 Brass Flare Nuts (for 3/8” tubing) 8 Rubber or Brass O-Rings (Sized to tightly fit on 3/8” tubing) 12 or more Feet of 3/8” Copper Tubing One tube of Pipe Dope 2 Aluminum Sheets 21.5” x 21.5” 2 Steel Pizza Pans, 12” diameter and 6 short bolts with nuts Bag of 1/2” Copper Tubing Fasteners to attach Valves to Brackets 2 Small pieces of Steel to attach T Joint 6 U-Bolts 1.5”, Bag of plastic 3/8” tubing clips

Special Equipment Copper Tube Cutter Flaring Tool (3/8”) Copper Tube Bender (3/8”) Burner Ignitor Purchase a butane lighter with an approximately 6” wand (probe). Even if the butane supply is empty, the spark from the ignitor will still light the propane burners.

 

 

                                                                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Procedures
Notch the corners of the 2 aluminum sheets to fit centered on top of the burner platforms. Attach with screws.

Notch the corners of the 2 aluminum sheets to fit centered on top of the burner platforms, Attach with screws.

Plywood Brackets - As shown above, each bracket is designed with three layers of 1/2” plywood which act as a brace against shifting.  Size the plywood brackets to allow the free turning of the flare nuts.  The 3/8 in copper tubing will contact the 2 x 4s only along the bottom board.  Construct the 3 plywood brackets - Cut and glue together.  When dry, attach the 2 valve brackets to the frame, insert the valves, and secure with 1/2” copper tubing fasteners.  Drill and install 3 bolts and nuts, spaced as legs, onto each pizza pan.  The pans will act as a bottom heat reflector under the burners.  Insert both burners and pans, centered on top of the platforms.  (Caution: Align the burner gas ports with the location where the tubing will come through the platform.)  Drill and secure each burner to the platform with 3 equally spaced u-bolts.  Drill holes for the 3/8” tubing just outside of the burners.  The system is constructed with 4 sections of copper tubing, with each section bent to fit.  Measure and cut the 2 burner to valve sections.  (Caution: Add approximately 1/2” to each section to compensate for the 2 flared ends.)  Using the tube bender, bend each to fit.  (Caution: Hold the tube carefully while bending to avoid sliding and kinking.)  Insert first the flare nuts, then the o-rings and flare both ends.  (Tip: By design, the flares should result in an airtight system.  But I’ve found that only when o-rings and pipe dope is used will a tight seal occur.)    Apply pipe dope to all areas where gas may escape (coating - flares, o-rings and t joint).  Attach tubing to the burners and valves.  Tighten the flare nuts being careful not to over-tighten which may force the o-rings over the flared ends.  Cut the HLB valve to t joint tubing and prepare in the same manner.  Hold the tubing in place while the t joint bracket and t joint is installed snugly against the tubing.  (Caution: The tubing will not fit into place if the t joint is installed first.)  Prepare and tighten flare nuts.  Install the kettle burner to t joint tubing and attach it to the bottom 2 x 4 using 3/8” plastic tubing clips.  This will require the removal and chiseling of a 2 x 4 for the gas line.  Install the propane support (cut to accommodate the gas line) and platform.  Install the propane tank and line with regulator.  Test the system for leaks using soapy water and your nose.  Everything should be airtight except the valves.  In my experience, all valves will leak slightly.  Replace if more than a minor leak.  Light the burners and fully test the system.  Be careful.